Please click here for some gorgeous images from the Highland Park Iris Friendship Garden.

Note: This walking tour of Rochester's Highland Park is in two sections; numbers 1 through 7 are wheelchair and stroller accessible (but with some steep slopes) while 8 through 10 involve some stair climbing.

Click here for map of this tour; then click on the map to enlarge and sharpen the image.

Highland Park is one of three parks designed by Frederick Law Olmsted in Rochester, New York. The park’s origins date to 1883 when nurserymen George Ellwanger and Patrick Barry offered 19 hilltop acres of their nursery grounds to the City of Rochester for a memorial park. While city officials were reluctant to accept the offer, several prominent Rochesterians saw that the site could be more than a single park: it could be the nucleus of a complete system of parks and parkways that would beautify the “Flower City,” provide recreational opportunities, and enhance property values. Olmsted designed Highland Park as an arboretum; today it is best known as the site of Rochester’s renowned Lilac Festival. Before starting your tour, read more about the history of Highland Park.

Link to Map

1. Begin your tour in front of the Lamberton Conservatory as there is ample parking there. You may want to save the conservatory for last to rest and shop in the gift shop after your hike in the arboretum. Directly across Reservoir Drive from the conservatory is a paved pathway that winds through the arboretum. On your left as you meander down is the horse-chestnut collection. Many of these trees once grew in the Ellwanger and Barry Nursery and one is named after George Ellwanger. In May and June magnificent clusters of white, pink, yellow or red flowers decorate the trees. Take the time to enjoy the tree peonies across the path from the horse chestnuts and wander through the Woodland or Poet’s Garden a little farther west to see spring bulbs and wildflowers, magnificent old oak trees and flowering shrubs. The Rochester Garden Club gave this garden to Highland Park in 1916. It was dedicated to honor the lifework of William Shakespeare, upon the 300-year anniversary of his passing.

2. Next on the path are the Magnolias; over 35 species and varieties are located here. The Star Magnolias (Magnolia stellata) begin blooming in late April with the daffodils and early tulips. Saucer Magnolias (Magnolia soulangiana) bloom in May while the Sweetbay Magnolias (Magnolia virginiana) bloom intermittently throughout the season. Other notable magnolias to search out are Magnolia macrophylla (Bigleaf Magnolia) and (Magnolia kobus DC) Kobus Magnolia.

In 2002, a new garden was designed under and around the magnolia and barberry collections and planted with a remarkable collection of Louisiana Irises. It is a comprehensive collection, containing all five species of this wildflower native to the bogs of Louisiana, as well as a broad representation of significant advances in hybridization from the early 1930’s to the present. There is a special planting of nine new cultivars named for people and places in Rochester and Hamamatsu, Japan, our sister city. Some of the names are: Frederick Douglass, Susan B. Anthony, Eastman Winds, Pure Water, and Shizuoka Sunrise. This iris grows best in wet sites, is fully hardy in the northeast, and comes in all colors of the rainbow because one of the species, Iris fulva, is red. Mid to late June and early July are the best times to visit the Louisiana Irises.

Of course, not to be ignored is the Barberry collection found on the north side of the path just past the magnolias. These shrubs have flowers in the summer; berries in the fall and some varieties have red, purple, or bronze foliage for added interest through the spring, summer, and fall seasons. They grow as large or small shrubs, some small enough to be used as groundcover. The only drawback is, of course, the "barbs" on the stems that make pruning them a daunting task.

3. Rochester's famous lilac collection begins just past the magnolias on the south side of the path. The more than 500 species of lilacs represented by 1200 shrubs covers 22 acres of the south-facing slope of the park. Purple, white, lilac, pink, blue, violet, or magenta fragrant flowers beckon passersby from all directions in May. The Lilac Festival draws thousands of visitors from all over the country and the world.

Follow the path past the barberries to discover the Euonymus collection, a surprising variety of shapes, sizes and colors of small trees, shrubs and groundcovers. Here the foliage is green, yellow, or variegated in spring and summer and some turn brilliant red or purple in the fall. The fruit capsules are similar and yet unique to every plant. The colorful pink to orange-red fruit on some plants dominates in the fall even after the leaves have fallen.

4. Farther along the path on your right is a collection of unusual trees, many from Asia with fruit, bark, flowers, or foliage with characteristics that amaze and astonish. The chinese (find the name) has huge thorns along its trunk and stems that would frighten off a rose. The leaves of the Hardy Rubber Tree contain latex that suspends one half of a leaf from the other when it is pulled apart. The fruit of the jujubee is edible; the seed of the Gingko is too, but who would want to eat it after smelling the foul odor given off by the fallen fruit? Then the multicolored bark of the Japanese Stewartia is only rivaled by the multitudes of camellia-like flowers that cover the tree in July, or its brilliant foliage in the fall.

Looking north again, you will see the Japanese and Full Moon Maple collection, Acer palmatum and Acer japonicum respectively. Specimens of these small trees, grown more for their ornamental qualities than for shade, come in many colors. There are dwarf and slow-growing varieties that stay small for a long time and varieties that can reach twenty five to thirty feet in height. There are weeping trees, contorted trees, and trees with crinkled leaves, variegated leaves or brightly colored leaves that retain their color all summer and fall. Even the flowers of many of these maples are striking in early spring. The popularity of these trees has driven our local nurseries to offer more varieties.

Ensconced within the maples is a large, spreading specimen of Bottlebrush Buckeye, Aesculus parviflora, that has flowers that look like large, white bottle brushes, hence the name. Native to South Carolina, Georgia and Florida, this shrub thrives in our area, the largest specimen being the one in Durand-Eastman Park on Sweet Fern Road. Fall foliage is butter yellow.

Next come the Smokebushes, Cotinus cogiggria, with their attractive green or purple foliage and cotton candy-like clusters of "hairs" (pubescence) that develop on their large panicles after they flower. The pubescence can be cream-colored or pink. These plants grow from 10 to 15 feet if allowed to reach their mature height.

5. There is a fork in the path here. Take the right fork and head east towards the Hydrangea and Viburnum collection. Hydrangeas for the most part bloom in summer and fall when they are a welcome sight after the spring rush of blossoms. Look for the colorful hortensias (commonly called mopheads) and lacecaps of Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf Hydrangea) in July and August. The blossoms in shades of pink or blue last for weeks. Hydrangea paniculata (Peegee Hydrangea) as well as Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf Hydrangea) varieties are generally in bloom in August, although their sepals persist into the fall, changing their large paniculate inflorescences from white to pink.

The Viburnums, like the Hydrangeas, offer interest in spring, summer, and fall with white blossoms beginning the show and colorful fruits lasting through fall and winter if not consumed by birds. There are many varieties of Viburnum that thrive in our area. Some of the most fragrant spring bloomers are Viburnum farreri (Fragrant Viburnum), Viburnum xburkwoodii (Burkwood Viburnum), blooming in April, and Viburnum carlesii (Koreanspice Viburnum) and Viburnum xjuddii (Judd Viburnum). Many of the later-blooming varieties have beautiful white flowers that are not quite as pleasant to sniff. All have red, yellow or black fruit, some with all three colors at once as the fruit ripens.

On the right just opposite the Hydrangea collection is one of the largest Katsuratrees (Cerciciphyllum japonicum) in the Northeast. This tree, native to Japan, has much to speak for it. The spring foliage is a lovely burgundy changing to bluegreen, the trunk is graceful with attractive bark, fall foliage is yellow to apricot, and the leaves develop a scent like caramelized sugar, as they turn brown. Also in this area are the Fringetrees. Chionanthus virginicus (White Fringetree) is native to New Jersey and south to Florida and Texas, Chionanthus retusus,(Chinese Fringetree) is native to China, Korea and Japan). Both have white flowers that droop in fringe-like panicles in May or June, covering the trees. Fruit on female trees are clusters of blue drupes.

6. Now it is time to climb a little as you head towards "Rhododendron Valley." On your way you will see more Viburnums and farther along, the Honeysuckles. The Honeysuckles, which come in a variety of sizes and forms, bloom for the most part in May. They can be either climbing vines or large or small shrubs with fragrant flowers or those with little or no scent. One species called Winter Honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima) blooms in early late March or early April with small lemon-scented flowers. Some of the other varieties include Lonicera tatarica x 'Arnold's Red,' living evidence of Rochester's connection to the Arnold Arboretum, Lonicera maackii (Amur Honeysuckle), one of the largest Honeysuckles and Lonicera xylosteum (European Fly Honeysuckle 'Emerald Mound') a dwarf variety growing only 3’ to 4’.

Next on the trail is the collection of ericaceous plants, all requiring acid soil to thrive.Here you will find Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Japanese Pieris (mistakenly called Adromeda), Redvein Enkianthus, and Mountain Laurel. The best time to visit this part of Highland Park is in late May and June to see a riot of red, orange, yellow, pink, white and magenta flowers covering these popular shrubs. Included within the display are several Acer griseum (Paperbark Maple) specimens. They are prized for their cinnamon-colored exfoliating bark and the brilliant crimson color of their fall foliage. All Azaleas are now included in the genus Rhododendron, but still retain their common names, so you can still call an Azalea an Azalea.

7. Now the path forks again. Take the left fork and wind your way through the Dogwood collection. You will see a very large tree to your left as you round the curve. It is a Japanese Raisintree (Hovenia dulcis). The fleshy terminal stems of this tree are edible in the fall and taste a little like pears. Another fork in the path then takes up the hill for an expansive view of the reservoir and surrounding countryside. At this point in the tour, those who have difficulty climbing stairs may want to make their way back to the Lamberton Conservatory down Reservoir Avenue. Those who are able to hike steep hills may continue on towards the Pinetum.

From here, those who have had enough walking can return to the Lamberton Conservatory down Reservoir Drive. Those who want to continue may head towards the Pinetum.

8. The Pinetum, part of Frederick Law Olmsted's design for Highland, is planted on the hills that enclose Pinetum Drive so well that it makes us feel as if we are in the middle of a forest, far from the city. There are over 300 different kinds of conifers growing here, many more than the original 109 varieties that were here in 1898. Specimens of Pine, Spruce, Hemlock, Chamaecyparis, and Fir, as well as under plantings of azaleas and rhododendrons, make this a very interesting stroll, indeed.

9. From here the climb gets a little steeper as you ascend the stairs to the pinnacle of the hill. Note the massive oaks that grace the terrain as you climb as well as more conifers. The summit is where the former Children's Pavilion once stood. It was a three-level circular building affording views of the countryside. Built in 1890 and dedicated to the children of Rochester, it was a popular destination for many people unitl it was torn down in 1963. The pavilion was a major focal point in Frederick Law Olmsted's design for Highland Park. Plans to rebuild it are underway.

10. The last leg of the tour takes you down the hill again past rose valley where crabapples and cherries, hawthornes and plums bloom in spring. On your right as you descend you will see Pea shrubs (Carogona) and Amorphor. This path will lead you back to the smokebushes. Take a right to return the way you come from the start of the tour.