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Chapter 5 Index
Preserving significant interior featuresMany people believe the preservation of the interior of their home is less important than the preservation of the exterior. They reason, that while the exterior must conform to the neighborhood, the interior must provide all modern amenities. But our homes can be modern and interestingly old at the same time. Let's begin with the floor plan and then consider some individual areas and elements. |
Maintaining your floorplan and original elementsEnter nearly any old house and the first thing you notice is the entry hall. Until the 1860s, large entrance halls were generally flanked by formal parlors and dining rooms. Elaborate stairwells frequently stretched from the hallway up to the private quarters where expensive details and materials were simplified or not used at all. The symmetry in early to mid-nineteenth century residences was as clearly articulated in the interior floorplan as on the exterior elevations. During the late Victorian period, much of the formality and symmetry went out of style and was replaced with asymmetrical designs including studies, libraries, and conservatories. This eclectic placement of rooms is often evident from the exterior by the odd placement of windows, bays, towers, and various details that are indicative of the period. Regardless of the style or period of your home, it is best to preserve its unique qualities. Maintain the floor plan, woodwork, doors, hardware, and any decorative features that give your house its special character. When changes are necessary, replicate the original details as much as possible and avoid mixing contemporary products with the old. Millwork shops can match nearly any details that may have been ruined or removed. Purchase period hardware, light fixtures, tile, and other items from dozens of reproduction and salvage dealers across the country. Two great sources for locating restoration and rehab materials are through these publications: Traditional Building Old-House Journal Restoration Directory  SYMMETRICAL HOUSE PLAN
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Baths and kitchensKitchens and bathrooms can be convenient and efficient and still maintain their historic charm. It is not unreasonable to expect trouble-free appliances and adequate working space, but this doesn't automatically mean old fixtures and period details must be discarded. Most original bathroom hardware and fixtures can be serviced or duplicated; this includes faucets as well as toilets. Also preserve or repair original tile floors, walls, and shower enclosures. Few of us would tolerate a leaky old icebox, sink handpump, or wood cook stove but kitchens don't have to be gutted of their special appeal. Design new cabinets using moldings, beadboard, trim, or other details similar to those existing. If your house was built before the advent of built-in cabinetry, copy details from examples of free standing cupboards that would have been used. Choose tile or sheet flooring that is similar to old patterns, or paint your floor in an old linoleum pattern. To find elements, parts, or appliances for your kitchen or bath, call: Horsefeathers Jacobs Tile (for salvaged bathroom tile) Renovator's Supply
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Wall and ceiling plasterPlaster is a versatile product used historically for decorative and utilitarian purposes. Since few of us have plastering skills or know anyone who does, we are often hesitant to undertake repairs and too quick to cover good plaster with drywall or plywood paneling. In western New York, early 19th-century plaster was applied to the wall or ceiling over a primitive system of stretched lath (also called accordion lath). Sawn lath replaced accordion lath around the mid-19th century and was used until expanded metal lath became prominent in the 1920s and 30s. Plaster was usually (but not always) applied in three distinct layers. The first layer, called the scratch coat, was applied thickly, taking care to work plenty of material between the laths to form good keys. When the scratch coat dried, the second layer, known as the brown coat, was applied. The final thin layer known as the finish or putty coat, could be applied with a mirror-like smoothness or in a variety of textures. As an added measure of quality, canvas was sometimes applied over the finished plaster to hide hairline cracks that often appeared after initial construction. In the Rochester area, plasterers commonly scored horizontal and vertical lines into fresh plaster of kitchens and baths to mimic the grout lines of ceramic tile used in more expensive homes. When repairing plaster, it helps to know the reason for the failure. Below are some common plaster problems: CRACKS: Cracks are the most common type of plaster failure. Plaster cracks are not always serious; most old houses have a few in nearly every room. Cracks range from hairline-size to very wide and can follow structural members in a straight line or run diagonally across the surface. If your plaster appears to be firmly attached to the lath, the cracks could be from a structural problem. Foundation settlement, deteriorated basement posts, excessive roof snow loads, under-sized joists, seasonal temperature and humidity changes, warped or twisted studs, and poorly executed repairs or additions can all lead to structural cracks. DELAMINATION: Delamination, or failure between layers, usually occurs between the finish coat and brown coat. This is obvious when the smooth outer layer (1/8" or less thick) separates from the rougher undercoat. Excessive moisture, a hard shock, or poor mixture of materials can all lead to delamination. Delamination between the scratch coat and the brown coat usually occurs when the wet scratch coat is not scored (thus, the name "scratch") adequately to ensure a proper bond between layers. KEY FAILURE: Plaster keys secure the plaster to the lath. They are formed by firmly troweling the ground coat material through the lath. Key failure is usually detected by large bulges, with or without accompanying cracks. Failure can result from excessive moisture, a hard shock, inadequate voids for keys, or poor mixtures of plaster materials-including an inadequate amount of animal hair to bind the mixture together. After making any needed structural repairs, remove all loose, bulging or deteriorated material back to a sound surface. In large or deep repairs, make sure the lath is sound, secured tightly, and that nails are not deteriorated. Clean out cracks by undercutting-bevel the cut back under the surface so that the patch will form a good key. To prevent premature and uneven drying of the new plaster, dampen all old wooden lath and the edges of the sound plaster just before applying your wet material. For small and medium-sized repairs, use inexpensive products from your local hardware store or home center. Nothing works better for skim coating, shallow repairs, and cracks than two or three coats of common drywall mud. Try spackling compound for minor blemishes and nail holes. Repair larger and deeper holes with two or three layers of a quick setting drywall compound like Durabond 90. You'll need a heavy-duty drill and mixer to blend the powder with water in a five-gallon bucket. Durabond dries hard and fast, so apply it within the recommended time frame (about 30 minutes) and work neatly-it's nearly impossible to sand unless you purchase the "easy sand" variety. Repairs to large expanses of bare lath, especially overhead, should begin with Structo-Lite or Gypso-Lite. Available at masons' or builders' supply stores, these modern lightweight products can be applied thickly and will not bulge or fall when mixed and troweled properly. For a temporary fix, try plaster washers to resecure bulging plaster to the lath. To do this, gently push the plaster back into place. Screw enough washers in to hold it firmly. Skim coat a layer of drywall compound or spackling over the countersunk washers, sand, and paint. If you are thinking about using drywall and traditional plaster is definitely ruled out, consider using a veneer plaster system (usually called rock lath or blueboard). Blueboard is available in sheets similar to drywall, but has a chemical impregnated in the outer covering that ensures the skim coat of plaster adheres tightly. Once installed, your plasterer will apply one or two coats of finish plaster over the entire surface. Your walls will have a true plaster "feeling," and you'll avoid the unsightly seams and nail bulges so common to drywall. Large plastering projects are best left to professionals, but if you want traditional formulas and techniques, refer to Plastering Skills by Van Den Branden/Hartsell, available from Old-House Journal.
For traditional plastering materials visit:Henrietta Building Supplies, Inc. Keystone Builders Supply Co., Inc. Flower City Builders Supply Corp. For plaster washers visit:Hunt's Hardware Hunt's Hardware |
FloorsOriginal hardwood and wide pine floors rank near the top of most old house-lover's lists. Yet, few home owners agree on the best methods to care for their floors. To finish or not to finish floors is often a subjective decision. Some people demand a like-new appearance from every detail in their home. For them, only a sanded, refinished floor is acceptable. Others appreciate the patina created by years of use and exposure. Since flooring can only be commercially sanded and refinished a limited number of times, make every effort to protect your floor finish from excessive wear and damage. Here are a few suggestions: If your floor is looking a little scratched and haggard, but the finish has not worn through to the wood, it might only need a renewed finish. First, remove any wax, polish, oil, dirt, and grime with wax remover and detergent recommended by your local hardware store. To be sure it is clean enough to apply a new finish, lightly sand a small area of the cleaned floor (a six-inch square in an area likely to have been waxed) with 220 grit sandpaper and apply one coat of a compatible finish (typically, varnish, polyurethane, or one of the new water-reducible finishes). If this does not dry thoroughly and adhere adequately to the old finish in the time indicated on the package, the floor is probably still contaminated with wax, etc. If it dries successfully, sand the entire floor with 220 paper, clean up the dust with tack cloths, and apply a fresh coat of finish according to label directions. If you are a die-hard preservationist, or if the floor can't hold up to another commercial sanding, consider stripping it with paint and varnish remover. Repair damage by sanding, scraping, bleaching, or staining as recommended in furniture refinishing books. This done, you can choose from a variety of finishes for your rejuvenated floor. There's a lot of confusion about choosing the best floor finish. Some finishes lie on top of the wood, while others soak in and become a part of the upper layer of wood. Generally, surface finishes are preferable to oil or wax finishes. Surface finishes protect the floor from damage by withstanding abuse before it reaches the wood. Oils penetrate the wood; thus, scrapes and stains may be difficult or impossible to remove without sanding. Waxes require high maintenance. You can't beat old-fashioned gloss or semi-gloss varnish for floors. Varnish provides a durable, water-resistant surface coating that can be easily waxed or recoated. Varnish is often confused with polyurethane and polyurethane-varnish, but these are different products. Pratt & Lambert's #38 Varnish or McKloskey's Heirloom Varnish are two excellent products. Those seeking the toughest, most water-resistant coating available usually choose polyurethane, a cousin to varnish. Polyurethane is excellent for use in kitchens and bathrooms where exceptional durability is required. Once shunned for its plastic-like finish, polyurethane is almost indistinguishable from traditional varnishes and available in a spectrum of sheens from low luster to gloss. Since polyurethane dries very hard, following label directions is extremely important to prevent between-layer failure. It is also difficult to recoat old layers of polyurethane without exceptional preparation between the old and new material. Modern water-reducible floor finishes are increasingly popular and will surely dominate the future market. Most of these modern finishes require several coats to equal two or three coats of varnish or polyurethane. The best of these products are expensive ($60 per gallon and up), and must be renewed frequently, so think twice before using them in hard-use areas. They should also be used as a complete system and not over old varnish or polyurethane. Still, there's a lot of merit in less toxic finishes that can be recoated the same day. If you must completely sand your floors, call a professional. Tongue-and-groove and strip flooring can be sanded several times if done carefully. Replace damaged or missing boards with salvaged or new stock. Feather in large repairs by staggering the boards to avoid a patched look. |
Mechanical systemsMost plumbing, electrical, and HVAC (heat, ventilation and air-conditioning) work can be accomplished in an inconspicuous manner that will not detract from your home. Choosing a contractor who understands your interest in protecting the integrity of your house and is willing to work with you is extremely important. Wires, pipes, and ductwork should be hidden in walls or in carefully designed chases. If your contractor says a particular project can't be done, he might be right, or he might not want to go to the trouble to do it your way. For example, electricians commonly run surface-mounted wiring because it's time-consuming to snake wires through the walls. If you are willing to pay for first class workmanship, get several estimates and opinions. HARD-TO-FIND SUPPLIES: Purchase old-fashioned electrical switches and plates at Hunt's Hardware at 390 Thurston Rd. in the 19th Ward (436-9270) and at 750 South Avenue in the South Wedge (271-7877). For a catalogue of new registers, call Reggio Registers (508) 772-3493. Renovators Supply will also send a catalogue of old-house specialty items, (1-800-659-2211) |
Stripping woodworkIt's hard to believe that anyone would paint over beautiful oak, chestnut, or gumwood trim. But styles change, and last year's chic is often this year's faux pas. If you are thinking about restoring your wood trim, whether it's covered with layers of paint or hidden by darkened varnish, there are a few general procedures to follow. If your woodwork and doors are painted, determine if they were originally painted or if they were clear-finished. You should be able to do this by looking under escutcheon plates or hardware, by stripping a small area, or by looking at chipped paint on door corners or baseboards. If the wood was always painted, there will be paint embedded in the grain of the wood. Varnished wood should look dark but free of paint. If your woodwork was originally painted, it is probably a common softwood and it might be difficult to refinish to an acceptable, attractive finish. You should try a small area to see what's ahead. If you decide to repaint, you'll get the best job if you strip numerous thick layers before painting. If the paint build-up is not excessively thick, sand it smooth, repair dings with filler, prime, and repaint. If your woodwork was originally clear-finished, you should be able to bring it back to its original glory. Professionals who strip trim for a living usually begin removing paint with a heat gun, taking care not to scorch or burn the underlying wood. When you've finished with the heat gun, clean up the remaining paint and varnish with chemical stripper. Whether you use chemicals or heat, remove doors and place them on sawhorses; it's less messy and quicker. Use heat guns to strip paint but not varnish. If you are removing lead-based paint with your heat gun, wear a NIOSH-approved respirator to prevent breathing dangerous lead fumes. You can purchase inexpensive home lead paint-testing kits at most local hardware stores and home centers. Your choice of chemical stripper depends on your tolerance of chemicals and your schedule. The quickest, most effective stripper is the solvent/methylene chloride variety. Since methylene chloride is a known carcinogen and the solvents are noxious in closed areas, many people refuse to use it. Avoid it if you, your family, or other workers are chemical-sensitive. For most of us, however, the danger and objectionable odor is minimized by adequate ventilation, rubber gloves, and eye protection. You'll also need to use a good chemical respirator in poorly ventilated areas-a paper dust mask is not adequate protection. You might find the safer, pH neutral strippers preferable for your situation. These strippers are very slow, often taking several hours to work. The newer citrus strippers appear to be more effective than the first "safe strippers" and several local contractors report that they are effective. You may have read about caustic alkaline strippers that you apply and then cover with a special membrane. According to their advertising, when the time is right, all the layers of old paint can be pulled off at once. Unfortunately, they seldom work so easily. Don't use caustic, alkaline strippers without first experimenting on an obscure area. They bleach some woods, and when left on the surface too long, the wood grain is often raised or damaged. Several applications might be necessary. To the credit of alkaline strippers, they are excellent for removing paint from plaster, and any lead residue is contained in the membrane covering and easy to dispose of. Use caustic alkaline products with caution; they will burn your skin. Always use eye protection, chemical resistant rubber gloves, and plenty of protective clothing. If you are planning a stripping project, save it for warm weather when you can open the windows and doors. Extinguish all pilot lights or open flames when using flammable materials. Organize everything you need, and plenty of it. Once you begin, you don't want to track the residue around the house looking for additional tools. Move any furniture, carpets or valuable items out of the room or away from the work area. Cover furniture with plastic sheeting (at least 2 mil.) and use building paper or heavy cotton drop cloths on the floor. It's a good idea to carefully tape the protective building paper or drop cloths to the baseboard or shoe molding. Using the heat gun, you'll need a box for disposal of the residue and a variety of scrapers. One of the biggest problems in using a heat gun is keeping your putty knives clean. It speeds up the process to have several on hand. With chemicals, you'll need clean work buckets and clean, throw-away brushes. Piles and piles of old newspapers for the gummy residue are a must. Also, buy plenty of medium-grade steel wool-several sleeves for the typical room-sized project. Since sharp edged putty knives can gouge and splinter wood, try inexpensive, plastic putty knives for the heavy layers and save sharper tools for the corners, crevices, and fine tuning. When you begin, apply your chemicals liberally and give them time to work. Remove your initial heavy layers of paint with putty knives, and save your steel wool for final clean-up. Old toothbrushes, soft brass wire brushes, and clean paint brushes with the bristles cut short are good for cleaning the residue from corners, intricate moldings, or from the grain of the wood. A cotton rag soaked in lacquer thinner is great for final clean-up. When the stripper dries completely, give the bare wood a light sanding with 220 grit paper, apply two or three coats of varnish, and you'll be back in business. For more information on stripping, refer to Bruce Johnson's The Weekend Refinisher, Ballantine: New York, 1989; or the "Woodwork" chapter of Patricia Poore's The Old-House Journal Guide to Restoration, Dutton: New York, 1992. |
PaintingInterior painting may not be one of the worst or most expensive components of a rehab project, but dealing with multiple layers of old paint, varnish, wallpaper, and ceiling textures can truly make a job seem endless. Here are some simple rules that can make your project run smoothly:
Flat paint and low-sheen enamels are your best choices for walls and ceilings. Use a shiny paint, even a semi-gloss, and you may suddenly realize that your plaster walls aren't as smooth as you thought. On the other hand, your woodwork should be painted with a satin or semi-gloss enamel. These paints wear better than flats and can be cleaned or washed easily. For a smooth finish, maintain a clean work area and use a tack rag after sanding. If your trim is varnished but looks dull or worn, a fresh coat of varnish might be the answer. Before applying any clear finish, clean off all traces of polish, wax, or oil residues and scuff up the surface with 220 grit sandpaper. |
Choosing the best lumberThe choice of lumber for interior projects depends on your planned finish. Some good paint-grade woods for interior use are poplar, white pine, and birch. Other varieties will give a good painted appearance provided they are knot-free and the summer and spring growth grain is narrow and even. Avoid using yellow pine. The difference between summer and spring grain of yellow pine is impossible to sand out enough to prevent "telegraphing" of the grain pattern through the paint. Also avoid open-grained hardwoods like oak. When possible, replace or repair clear-finished trim with the same type of wood surrounding it. This helps alleviate the task of matching stain and grain. There is no inexpensive substitute for oak, ash, or chestnut trim. Therefore, it is best to locate one of these hardwoods rather than attempt to match it. Since the grain patterns of these are similar, any of the three can usually be stained to match the others. Many Rochester-area homes are trimmed with sweetgum. Gum can still be purchased but is expensive. Poplar and white pine are good substitutes that can be stained to an effective gum-like match in grain and color.Gumwood is available at Pittsford Lumber, 50 State Street, Pittsford, NY (586-1877). Salvaged gumwood, chestnut, and oak doors and trim are sometimes available at Original Doors, 203 Milburn Street, Rochester, NY (271-6290). |
Wallpaper
From roughly 1840 until 1950, inexpensive wallpaper was a favored choice for decorating walls. The use of wallpaper was so pervasive that plasterers often finished new walls with only one coat of plaster over the lath, knowing that the paper would hide imperfections. Hanging wallpaper has long been a do-it-yourself project, and the industry has introduced innovative techniques and materials to make the task easier-pre-pasted paper is one example. Most paper-hangers, however, will correctly tell you that installation disasters are common, and you'd better do your homework if you want to avoid making a mess. Your first decision is whether to hang the paper yourself or to hire it out. Consider the cost of the material with your ability to install it. You might be willing to ruin a roll or two of $15 per roll paper, but is it worth the risk if the paper costs $50 or more per roll? If you decide to hang it yourself, buy the paper from a reputable dealer who can help you with some of these questions:
Here are a few tips to get you started.
Hang your paper last, after painting, floor-finishing, and carpentry. Repair cracks, voids, and other imperfections just as you would for painting. Prime your walls with one coat of flat alkyd enamel undercoat or sealer like Kilz and then use the recommended size. Never hang your paper over latex paint; the paste often reacts with the paint; this is particularly true over old water-base or inferior paints. Never hang your paper over glossy paints; the paper and paste may slide excessively, or the seams might pull apart or pucker. When cleaning up excess paste, one swipe of the sponge is not enough; it might take three or more passes of the sponge, using clean warm water each pass. If you leave paste, it will look like dry skim milk on trim or ceilings. Look at the room carefully before you begin. Don't hang your first strip in the most obvious part of a room. Your last strip will join your first, but they will not match. Behind a door is a good place to begin and end; this also allows you to get started and make a mistake or two in an area that won't be noticed. Hanging paper is not really a hard project, but remember that every material has its peculiarities and limitations. Always inquire about the material you've chosen and read a good "how to" manual before beginning. Back to Table of Contents |
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